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Farmers in Residence: Local Lamb from Springfield Farms of Kent County

Lamb Salad

Lamb Tenderloin, Mache Leaves, Manchego Cheese Dumplings, Salted Marcona Almond Vinaigrette

Serves: 4-6

Ingredients:

Salad:
2c.     Mach Leaves                              1oz.     Micro greens
½c.    Manchego Cheese, grated

Lamb Tenderloins:
1lbs    Tenderloins                               2t.       Curry Powder
2T.      oil                                                 1spg.   Rosemary
1oz.    olive juice

Salted Marcona Almond Dressing:
¾c.    toasted Marcona almonds     3T.     canola oil hot
1t.      Maldon salt                                 2.5oz.sherry vinegar
½oz.   orange juice                             10oz.  oil
¼c.    shallots, minced & sweated  1T.      garlic, minced & sweated
½ea.  orange peel, grated                ½c.     Marcona Almonds, toasted & minced

Manchego Cheese Dumplings:
12oz.  AP flour                                      8oz.    Butter
3ea.  Eggs, medium                            1oz.     Manchego cheese, grated

Directions:

Lamb Tenderloins:
Dissolve the curry powder in the olive juice. Combine all ingredients and place in a dish and cover, allow to marinate. Sear the season the Lamb with salt and pepper then sear
in a hot sauté pan over medium high heat in a small amount of oil. Cook the lamb to desired temperature, about 1 ½ minutes per side for medium rare.

Salted Marcona Almond Dressing:
In a blender, puree Marcona Almonds as fine as possible. Slowly pour in the hot oil and puree until very smooth and creamy. Add the salt. Add the orange juice and vinegar to the slowly running blender. Once thoroughly combined slowly add the oil until fully incorporated and emulsified. Note: you may need to add small amounts of water to keep the emulsification stable. Remove mixture to a bowl and fold in remaining ingredients.

Manchego Cheese Dumplings:

Melt butter and incorporate flour to form thick strong roux. Cook roux for 5–10 min, stirring continuously. In mixer with paddle attachment, mix roux on medium speed to begin to cool. Add eggs 1 at a time until each incorporated. Add cheese. Mixture should stick slightly to sides of the bowl and be very shiny and smooth. Season and put in pastry bag. With a pot of boiling water, drop small cylinders of mix into water and cook for 3 min. Shock in ice water. Quickly crisp them in a pan with a small amount of hot oil. They will be puffy and crispy.

To Plate:
Toss all but the lamb together and place in the center of your plates, slice the lamb and place on the salad then finish with a ring of the Marcona almond vinaigrette.

The Gold Cup

 

Having grown up in the industrial side of New Jersey the closest I came to a horse race was at the OTB on the corner watching the monitors.  So when I was invited to attend this years gold cup in The Plains Virginia I jumped at the chance.  Being a rookie I was not sure what to exactly what to expect so I threw on a Polo instead of a tee and we headed out.  Upon arrival it was hard to believe how many people were there, the place was packed.  Bus tours, campers and of course the hoards of personal vehicles filled the lots surrounding the track.  I was fortunate to be on Members hill as a guest, our hosts had a tent for some shade, a nice spread of snacks and plenty of adult beverages.  I had decided that I for today I would try and live like the equestrian set and do as they do.  I must say the equestrian set that I hung with were not as much about the horse races as they were about the food and beverage, emphasis on beverage. 

Upon arriving at the tent I met and thanked the host for having us and in the tradition of true southern hospitality I was offered champagne or mimosas to get my day going right.  What would a glass of champagne be without shrimp cocktail and snow crab cocktail claws.  After a couple of glasses of champagne and all of the raw bar. It was time to step it up a bit and start on the sandwich platters and I happened upon a pony keg of a nice pale ale.  With a full stomach and well on my way to a comfortable state of being it was time to venture out into the world of Gold Cup.

The First tent I came upon is an Audi tent with the brand new Audi R8 Spyder in bright red.  So I stand there for a few minutes trying to figure out how much I would need to bet, and win, in order to drive this car home.  When I realized that was just not going to happen I headed to the main food and beverage tent and figured what is a horse race without a mint julep?  I probably should not have had that particular julep but I suffered through it.  Since I was walking around I was on the search for two things, first the best hat and second seeing  at least a glimpse of a horse race.  I snapped a bunch of photos, not many came out well, and then headed to the fence.  The race was about to start, they started and then nothing for about fifteen minutes.  I took this as a sign that I was supposed to head back up to our tent.

Back at base camp I notice an all too familiar site and was grateful that I had returned.  The site was jello shots,  and they just happened to be more shot than jello.  And then our host came around asking if we wanted to bet on the next race, I said of course and I pulled Fantastic Foe, and he happened to win.  On that note it was time to grab a small sweet bite and roll out before the crowds.

All in all it was not much different than a typical day off in the city, Food, Drink and Gambling.  I cant wait to go back.

All Fruit Cocktails are Not Created Equal

Fruit Cocktail

Let’s talk fruit cocktail.  When I was a kid every once in a while for no apparent reason in the dead of winter we would have fruit cocktail for dessert.  The fruit was not fresh and thankfully not frozen, but it was canned.  All I knew is that when this day came I was stoked.  There was usually only one nuclear cherry in the can so endless fighting between my brother and I ensued.  Flash forward to current day I still have a fascination with fruit cocktail but I do stay away from the canned variety.

Every Chance I get to do a fruit cocktail on a special menu I take it.  So this past Saturday I had such an opportunity.  It was a small celebratory gathering of 16 people and they would nosh on a few hors d’oeuvres then move into a four course dinner.  So a light dessert was in order.  I only do this dessert for groups of 20 or less due to my poor prep cook who has to produce the Mise En Place.  This is how the dessert unfolds first I find my one Parisian scoop that produces balls the size of a large BB.  Once I have this tool I begin looking for the ripest of fruits.  Of course you go through all of the types of melons finding the ripest ones.  Then I find some pineapple, strawberries, grapes and kiwis.

Now that the standard fruit has been selected its time to find some rare and exotic types.  On this particular occasion I found some very nice and ripe guava, papaya and passion fruit.  At this point each of the fruits are gently and precisely scooped using this miniature melon baller.  That does include the strawberries and grapes.  The on e twist with the grapes is that they are peeled first.   Now I’m sure you’re seeing a bit of why I only do this dish for smaller groups.

With the fruit scooped ill make a light rhubarb syrup with a bit of mint, this will help to bind the fruit but also use some of the fresh fruit juices to make the syrup.  I like to finish this dish with a sorbet, for this event a champagne sorbet was in order.  And a bit of texture in the way of a rhubarb crisp.

Truly a delicious way to enjoy your daily serving of fresh fruits.

My Weekly Drive: In Search of Fresh Produce

It is my goal this year to get into the local farmland every Sunday to check out hidden jewels as well as visit farm stands and get my fruits and vegetables for the upcoming week.  So this past Sunday the journey took us to Tilghman Island on the Chesapeake.  We unfortunately got a late start to the day but we were on a mission to have some seafood on the water.

It was a beautiful day and the drive was entertaining through windy roads as well as the high speed portion of highway driving.  As we drove past Easton and through st. Michaels we decided to walk around the Inn at Perry Cabin.  This inn has great views and beautiful surroundings; it was however a little dressy for shorts and a tee.  Back into the car and onward. While waiting for the drawbridge to the island to come down (the only way over the water) we took some time to look around the local marina and simply enjoy the water.  Drawbridge down, back in the car and off to explore.  We drove to the end of the island, which was not very far, but after a short drive over unpaved roadway we happened upon a another great little inn at the tip of the island.  As we drove back through town we stop at what promised to be the place I’m looking for, a gritty restaurant on the water.  Pick a table outside order a beer and check out the menu.  Decide to have a light snack and relax for a while in the sun.

The next stopover was in Easton. I spotted a creamery.  So of course, I’m all about getting a sundae.  Mine a peanut butter ripple hot fudge sundae with whipped cream and a cherry.  So after I devour my cold treat we check out a little more of town and then it’s time to start making our way back home.

Now on the road home, eyes are peeled looking for farm stands, farm markets or anyone selling some freshly plucked produce.  I knew it was going to be a tall order due to the early season and the time of day on a Sunday but this is part of my mission.  We drove by a couple of stands that are either closed for the day or simply have no opened yet.  Then as all hope begins to fade we spot a farm market.  Inside the market is a small amount of produce, not much from the immediate vicinity, and a lot of items from nearby Pennsylvania.  So a load up the basket with some Maryland tomatoes and a few other items that seemed to be very fresh and ripe.  Pack up the car and head home.

In the end the booty was not as grand as I would have liked but the tomatoes, strawberries and pears were perfectly ripe and delicious.  I can’t wait until more stands open and more products start popping up.

My Weekly Drive

It is my goal this year to get into the local farmland every Sunday to check out hidden jewels as well as visit farm stands and get my fruits and vegetables for the upcoming week.  So this past Sunday the journey took us to Tilghman Island on the Chesapeake.  We unfortunately got a late start to the day but we were on a mission to have some seafood on the water. 

It was a beautiful day and the drive was entertaining through windy roads as well as the high speed portion of highway driving.  As we drove past Easton and through St. Michaels we decided to walk around the Inn at Perry Cabin.  This inn has great views and beautiful surroundings; it was however a little dressy for shorts and a tee.  Back into the car and onward.  We approached the island and as we were arriving the one way onto the island is a drawbridge which happened to be opening in order to allow a boat to go through.  We took this time to look around the local marina and simply enjoy the water.  Drawbridge down, back in the car and off to explore.  We drove to the end of the island, which was not very far, but after a short drive over unpaved roadway we happened upon a great little inn at the tip of the island.  No staying over on a school night so this may be a place to come back to for a long weekend.  As we drive back through town we stop at what promises to be the place I’m looking for, a gritty restaurant on the water.  Pick a table outside order a beer and check out the menu.  Decide to have a light snack and relax for a while in the sun.   

Back on the road it only makes sense to stopover in Easton and walk around this quaint little town.  While getting to know our environs we, ok I spot a creamery.  So of course, I’m all about getting a sundae.  Mine a peanut butter ripple hot fudge sundae with whipped cream and a cherry.  So after I devour my cold treat we check out a little more of town and then it’s time to start making our way back home.

Now on the road home, eyes are peeled looking for farm stands, farm markets or anyone selling some freshly plucked produce.  I know it’s going to be a tall order due to the early season and the time of day on a Sunday but this is part of my mission.  We drive by a couple of stands that are either closed for the day or simply have no opened yet.  Then as all hope begins to fade we spot a farm market.  Inside the market is a small amount of produce, not much from the immediate vicinity, and a lot of items from nearby Pennsylvania.  So a load up the basket with some Maryland tomatoes and a few other items that seemed to be very fresh and ripe.  Pack up the car and head home. 

In the end the booty was not as grand as I would have liked but the tomatoes, strawberries and pears were perfectly ripe and delicious.  I can’t wait until more stands open and more products start popping up.

Grilling Gas vs. Charcoal vs. Wood

With the warm weather arriving more and more people venture into their back yards and for the apartment dwellers, like myself, a small courtyard with a few grills for use by the residents, in order to cook their meals.  I have always been a proponent of cooking over an open fire.  This developed during my years of backpacking in the Rockies where you simply had no other choice.  So I always had the classic Weber in my back yard that is until I bought a big, brand new house in a high style subdivision in Park City Utah.  It was time for that bright gargantuan stainless steel gas grill with two side burners.  This grill served its purpose of accommodating the big backyard barbecues that go along with suburban living. It never quite matched the product quality that I would get from cooking over that open fire in the mountains or even the back yard Weber that I had owned for many years in aspen.  Since then that house has been sold and now I find myself apartment living in Alexandria, which is my preferred style of living.  It’s just easier; no lawn to mow, no siding to paint, no gutters to contend with, but on the down side there really is nowhere to hold a backyard barbecue.

Since I cannot be the host of such events I find it to be my duty to attend as many as I can over the course of the barbecuing season.  My first of the season was at a friend’s home in Charlottesville.  This was a great little getaway since I was able to go on a nice drive letting my car stretch its legs, so to speak, but also allowed me to eat MEAT grilled over hardwood.  And the absolute best part of it was that I did not have to cook.  The wood does something magical to meat that gas and even charcoal cannot do.  The wood smoke so gently permeating the steak, or whatever else you may be grilling, does nothing but enhance the flavor of the product.  This hard wood smoke is the one seasoning enhancement you can’t buy.  If you have access to a wood burning grill this is the road less traveled due to convenience that is well worth the added work.  This is not to dismiss the use of gas grills by any means, they do have qualities of their own, but it is simply meant to add an additional item and flavor profile to your backyard repertoire.

Happy Grilling and use wood when you can.

Farmers Market

As we transition into the warmer weather and longer days two things are guarantees.   First I will owe the government money and second farm stands along the highways and country roads as well as streets in major cities farmers markets will spring up.  For me this is truly a great time of year because this allows people who live in the city and don’t get out to the country that often to enjoy farm fresh products.  Farmers markets can provide one with everything they need to sustain a healthy life style.  All types of farmers and artisans set up booths along these closed streets for a day, a week in certain areas daily in many other locations.  You can get fresh milk from local dairy farms as well as handcrafted cheese.  There are many different kinds of meats from buffalo to chicken.  Fresh eggs generally don’t get any fresher then when purchased directly from the farmer who raises the chickens.  Many markets have artisanal bakers so you can purchase that perfect loaf for your grilled cheese sandwich or even an all natural brownie.  You can even find a candle producer to impress your date with a candle lit dinner for two on your roof top.  Don’t forget about the great flowers that are offered.

Fresh Produce: Mushrooms

Produce at farmers markets is the star attraction.  The best thing about the produce is that its at the stand when its at its best.  If the produce from your region was at the market and next week its not then you have to wait until next year.   I believe that by more and more people filling their cupboards and refrigerators with this local product we begin to enjoy food for what its supposed to be.  When you grab a peach from a farm stand and bit into it the natural sweet juices running down your arm, that peach tastes like more.  So you get home stop by the grocery store and buy a peach, bite into it and nothing but chalky dryness that’s lacking in natural sugars, what a let down.  Same thing goes with rediscovering the tomato.  I grew up in Jersey and I have great memories of eating Jersey tomatoes at the shore during summer and the fruit was so sweet and juicy , it was incredible.  Since then we as society demanded a different perfect red round tomato and the Jersey tomato was lost.  Then along comes the popularity of heirloom variety tomatoes and once again society wants them year round so with all of our technological advancements we produce year round heirloom tomatoes.

Bite into a gorgeous marvel stripe tomato that has been picked at the peak of its ripeness from a farm within 200 miles then try one of these year round versions of that tomato and you will want to spit that year round baby in the face of the person who gave it to you.  That being said one of the beautiful things about an heirloom tomato is that they have very thin skins and don’t last very long once picked and certainly don’t travel well.  But this new variety travel great, have thick skin but aside from the color don’t resemble any of the great characteristics of a true seasonal heirloom.

This year I’ll be launching the 2010 season of the Penn Quarter Freshfarm Market. Every month we’ll focus on a local farmers’ produce and hold a cooking demonstration at Zola Wine & Kitchen for our Farmers in Residence program.

So Ill see you on Thursday April 1, 2010 at the Penn Quarter Farmers market opening!

Spring Chicken Salad with Shaved Farm Vegetables, Peppercorn-Honey Gaqtrique, Boiled Egg & Cracklings

Salad:

  • 2 c.  Shaved farmers market vegetables: carrots, baby zucchini, radishes, pearl onions, cucumbers, celery
  • 4 c.  Greens, cleaned and torn
  • 3 c.  Shredded chicken meat from a roasted chicken
  • ½ c.  Peppercorn-honey gastrique
  • 4 ea.  Soft poached eggs
  • (Optional: Chicken cracklings made from shredded chicken skin, sautéed in oil)
  • Peppercorn-Honey Gastrique
  • ½ c.  Meyer lemon juice
  • ½ c.  Shallots
  • 2  Cloves Garlic
  • 1 t.  Ground black pepper
  • 1 T.  Peppercorns, cracked
  • ½ c.  Honey
  • 1/3 c.  Sugar

Place all ingredients except the coarse cracked black pepper in a small sauce pan. Bring jus to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer. Strain mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Add cracked peppercorns, taste and adjust seasoning and tartness.

Zola Bites-A Gourmet Twist on Childhood Diner Favorites

I’m very excited this week because we have made some updates to our menu in the

Silver dollar pancakes

Spy City Café.   We have changed the table top items as well to present more of a diner feel.  As for the menu offerings man they bring me back to the diners of my childhood in Bloomfield NJ.

First how could you go wrong with a Taylor Ham, egg and cheese on a hard roll?  This sandwich, for me, is the best breakfast bite one can have.  Crispy Taylor Ham, from the great state of New Jersey, topped with a fried egg and on slice of good old American cheese.  All of this is served on a freshly baked roll delivered bright and early from our sister restaurant Potenza.

Cheddar Scramble

As if that is not enough we move into the daily specials which can be  anything from maple sausage and egg scramble sliders with cheddar cheese, a  Denver omelette Panini  to breakfast burritos and the list goes on.  Even though It’s hard to turn down the Taylor Ham, every once in a while one must partake in the simple pleasure that is corned beef hash.  Ours is loaded with freshly braised and diced corned beef that has been cured in house from local farmers.  We then have baked potatoes that have been diced, caramelized onions and sautéed red peppers some fresh thyme, butter and sear that mix on the griddle.  No it’s not done yet.  We fry a couple of farm fresh eggs and put those on top and for the finish we dress this pile of love with red pepper ketchup.  Aspen is the place where I first enjoyed this version of non pureed corned beef hash, and I must say the difference is truly great.

All of this said we do have malted waffles, malted pancakes, Swiss and mushroom omelette, cheddar egg scramble and an egg-bacon stuffed croissant sandwich.  That’s all for now but there is more to c

Bagels with Salmon

ome.  See you in the café for some Zola Bites!

Clam Chowder: New England vs. Manhattan

New England vs. Manhattan what style is your preference?  Are you a New England fan that rich, creamy and lightly smoked form preferably a quality apple wood smoked bacon.  On the flip side Manhattan style which is not creamy but made with tomato instead.   For me it’s a no brainer but let’s talk it through for a minute.  On my initial poll it starts out 50/50.  I’m finding out that there is as much passion about your chowder style as there is between Yankees fans and red sox fans.

Here we go let’s start with New England style.  Start with apple wood smoked bacon, potatoes, onions, celery, clam juice, chopped fresh clams, fresh herbs, cream and tighten it all up with a bit of finely ground saltines.  Once the soup is complete add a bit of sherry.   The Manhattan retains the bacon, mire poix, clam juice, chopped clams, and herbs but then substitute the cream for tomatoes.  So the bottom line is do you want rich and creamy or alight and bright with the tomatoes?

As I have spoken with everyone in my immediate ear shot New England style is taking off.  Most people don’t even want to credit the Manhattan style as being a legitimate version of chowder.  I have received at least a dozen perplexed looks that indicate the lack of knowledge that Manhattan clam chowder is real.  I just received an “I’m from New England and we don’t like tomatoes in our chowder”.  Also with that don’t call it soup it’s chowder.  Just got a call from a friend in Aspen so I asked the question and he much like me responded with, when in Rome.  This being said I feel that both renditions are great and each serves a different purpose.  Nothing warms the soul better than a hot cup of New England clam chowder in the dead of winter on the water.  Just as when on a cold blustery day in a glass enclosed establishment overlooking the park amongst the hustle and bustle of a major city, the tomato based style sure fits the bill.

So tonight I think I’ll make both soups in order to see what works for me when in DC.

Building a Bakery One Sweet Pastry at a Time

 

 

When I think of what makes a good Italian bakery for breakfast I automatically think espresso drinks and pastries.  So when it came time to build the menu for Potenza Bakery  and procure products for this outlet we started with a local coffee roaster  and a whole lot of ideas of what we wanted our brew to taste like so after multiple tastings and refinements we wound up with what we consider our perfect blend for the bakery.

Now that we had coffee it was time to dive into my favorite part, the pastry development.  I wanted to use some familiar items such as cinnamon roll or maybe sticky buns, so why not combine them and put an Italian twist on it.  And the Cherry-Pistachio Sticky Buns were born.  For this pastry we start with a house made cinnamon sweet dough that is then rolled like a cinnamon bun but instead of the proof, bake and glaze we put them in a prepared 9 inch pan with dried cherry smear with pistachios then proof and bake.  These beauties are served in the mornings only fresh out of the oven between 8and 10 so get there early.

Another great item is the Nutella Bar.  This baby is loaded with cream cheese, brown sugar streusel and of course Nutella, that wonderful hazelnut and cocoa spread that was first invented in the 1940’s in the piedmont region of Italy.  These bars are addictive so be well advised I prefer mine to be served with a dry cappuccino, whole milk of course.  What a great start to the day. 

It is also time to start something new.  So this week Ill be working on a stuffed bombolini.  This should be fun!

Nutella Bar

 

Sweet Grape Foccacia

Don’t forget the fabulous bread, although not part of the sweets menu, the semolina baguettes and grissini are favorites.