Category: Uncategorized
Tasting Tour in Chicago
| August 10, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
At the beginning of last week my wife, Jaime and I were deciding whether we should go to the eastern shore or possibly the jersey shore for the weekend. During this discussion we received an airfare alert for a very reasonably priced ticket to Milwaukee. I know what you’re thinking, unless I’m picking up a new Harley at the factory, which I wasn’t unfortunately, why go to Milwaukee? First reason that’s where one of Jaime’s sisters lives and second, which was my true motive, is that Chicago is only about an hour or so south. So the plan was set, we would have a quick afternoon visit with the Joan and then head to Chicago to reconnect with some friends and eat.
Saturday night we hooked up with some friends from my last restaurant in Denver. Drinks and frites, pork rinds, headcheese and house made pretzels first at a great American gastro pub style establishment called Publican. Here they truly pay great attention to the craft of beer making as well as the hog. Next up more snacks and great cocktails at Gilt a great place where the gin smash would have lived up to its name if it wasn’t for my 9:45 reservation at L2o. At L2o a very highly refined and beautifully appointed setting, we eased into our seats for what would be a two and a half hour dining experience that would focus on the perfection of seasonable ingredients being everything they could be. The service was impeccable, the wine delightful and the food delicious. Among my favorite dishes here was the tai snapper with flavors of green curry, the chocolate surprise for dessert was an explosion of flavor as well.
Sunday morning still feeling the effects of last night, I somehow managed to get a quick workout in before brunch at North Pond. Zucchini muffins, poached farm egg, roast leg of lamb and peach tart. All this and overlooking North Pond, I can’t think of a better way to start a rainy Sunday morning. After brunch the rain had stopped and the skies cleared nicely. What to do next, its only 3 in the afternoon and dinner isn’t until 8:30. Luckily for us there is a Calder exhibit going on at the Museum of Contemporary Art. After spending a few hours looking at great works of art I’ve realized two things, first, I would really love to have a Calder mobile in my home and second I have a strange desire for a sazerac, so back to the hotel. As I recline into the very comfortable chairs of the lounge and await my cocktail I can’t help myself from noshing on the olives and cheese sticks that are oh so appealing. Now that I’m thoroughly relaxed its time to get ready for dinner. Off to Alinea our destination for this evenings’ dinner. Tonight’s meal wasn’t as mush dinner as it is an all consuming alternate reality. Where throughout the meal you are called upon to participate while the entire time you are encouraged to have fun. This was a three hour roller thrill ride that you didn’t want to end. The meal kept you guessing what’s next? How could he top that? I didn’t think that was possible, finally when can I come back?
Chicago is a delicious town and I can’t wait to taste some more.
Hard Shell Crabs
| August 4, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
This past Sunday I set out on my weekly drive out of the city and headed to the shore just to walk on the beach. About a half hour into the drive a large electronic bill board was flashing all lanes closed at exit 41. As my luck would have it I need to get past exit 41 to in order to arrive at my final destination which was to be Lewes, Delaware. On the positive side of that I was just outside of Annapolis and it was around 3 pm so I felt it would be appropriate to start happy hour a bit early. Since I am not one to just drink, I need to eat as well. I figured what better way to celebrate the perfect weather than with beer and crabs. And the search began.
This being only the second time I have been in Annapolis I started by calling some former locals and as well as some crab lovers. After a few texts, calls and emails the recommendations were in and it was unanimous, we were on our way to Cantler’s on the River. It’s now 3:30 and I’m figuring it’s the perfect time to get in quickly and hang for a few hours before making the trip back to DC. As I pulled into the parking lot there was an attendant directing me to a secondary overflow lot because lot 1 was completely full. I park and head over to the restaurant, I’ll tell you as I approached the restaurant I knew I had been given great advice. There was what looked like a lemonade stand selling beer right outside the patio on the river.
Walk inside and I was in heaven it was a simple old school environment nothing but canned beer and basic booze. I put my name in and head to the bar while I wait for a table outside. I kick back with a margarita and simply relax, the only thing missing at this point is some Buffet on the radio, Margaritaville perhaps. As my I’m paying my bar tab my table is ready and I transition to the outside where the tables are large communal picnic style lined with heavy brown paper. Since there are only two of us we just go for the crab boil with crab legs added and a crab cake entrée. I order up another margarita and am starting to become giddy with anticipation. All around me the only sounds are of the hammers cracking the crab claws and the sound of oh so rewarding slurping of people getting into the legs, back fins and cavities of the recently steamed hard shells. About ten minutes later our food arrives and it is glorious plump clams and mussels with shrimp and of course hard shells. As I dig in I go for the low hanging fruit first, clams, mussels and shrimp. Then its time to get my hands dirty. Fins first little bits of heaven, then the claws crack them right and it’s the perfect cocktail claw. Now to the body pick out the lumps of meat and dip them in the drawn butter, I could do this all day. The crabs were delicious, tender and tasted like more. Unfortunately it was time to head back to the city so I pay up and head out the whole time looking forward to the next time I find myself in the Annapolis area so that I can enjoy a four to five hour crab fest.
Yes with hard shells there is work involved but the reward is well worth it. Crack a couple open today.
Bites Menu
| July 21, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
Recently I’ve been able to get out to many of our wonderful local eateries. In doing this I have come across one small obstacle. That obstacle is the fact that even my stomach is not large enough to hold everything I want to try. See, for me the whole point of dining out is to sample a chefs creativity and as much of it as you can. So dinner after dinner I order everything I would like to try and either leave unbelievably full or leave a ton of food on the plates even though I may want to continue eating. At some point one must succumb to reality. This goes the same for wine I believe every meal should consist of champagne, white and red, as well as port or Madeira to wrap things up. Half bottles for the beverage option usually works well for me. In order to encourage our guests to partake in this philosophy it was evident that I would need to create a sort of mini appetizers selection. Since the beginning stages of development it only made sense that we would pair these small bites with samplings of wine.
Onto the menu development stage, Potenza is the place and Italian is the style. It just so happens that now is a perfect time to be starting this because there are so many fun little things that are in season and will work well with this format. I start collecting items, squash blossoms, figs, local summer squashes, local veal, summer truffles, cauliflower and some ahi tuna just because its good. Now that I have a bunch of fun things to experiment what do I do with them? Since I want each of these items to focused there will only be supporting flavors to the main ingredient. I started with the figs, balsamic is a must, then add just a touch of gorgonzola and why wouldn’t you want to wrap the whole thing with house cured pancetta? The first of seven bites was born.
Next, ahi tuna in all of its sashimi grade splendor. This must be the simplest of all the bites. Black olive pesto on house made lovash finished with just a touch of maldon sea salt. Then there’s the veal, I’m a huge fan of osso bucco, braised veal shank but now is not the season for a big plate of richly braised meat but what if you used that meat mixed with something. I go right to arancini, those crisply fried risotto balls of love. Local braised veal arancini because fried risotto is always in fashion. A velvety smooth cauliflower puree topped with briefly seared diver scallops and a kiss of fennel pollen. Stone roasted local vegetables with house made mozzarella and creamy garlic. In the summertime there just has to be a bruschetta so why not top it with our house cured salmon, some charred frisee and caperberries. And lastly we need to stuff and crisp those wonderfully seasonal squash blossoms, truffled chicken and ricotta comes to mind immediately, why not place them on a lightly truffled asparagus sauce. There was no reason not to.
Now that the bites have been written its time to eat. See you at Potenza to try our bites with pairings!
Seafood
| June 29, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
With the weather warming I find myself craving more seafood. The beauty about seafood is the simple fact that there are so many different species that yield way to a variety of flavors and textures. My problem is that when dining we only come across only a standard offering such as salmon, ahi, bronzino, grouper, halibut, rock fish, sea bass, scallops, shrimp, calamari, lobster, mussels, clams and a few others. I will first say that all of the aforementioned fish and shellfish are delicious and should be consumed, but these are a very small minority of the vast count of edible species that exist. It will be my mission moving forward to bring a constantly evolving seasonal catch to our restaurants.
Some items I have served in the past but that I rarely come across on restaurant menus these days. There’s Gurnard, which when prepared gives way to a firm medium flavored tender meat. This fish is traditionally used in bouillabaisse but I served it on a compote of fresh shelling beans with cured ham and fenugreek, heirloom tomato water. What about the king of all fish as far as I’m concerned, wild European Turbot or Brill, these two are members of the flatfish tribe, fluke, flounder, but the meat, rich and robust flavor of wild turbot is light years ahead of the rest. I also haven’t seen much abalone on menus, when prepared correctly abalone are a special treat. Another favorite is rouge or red mullet, I love this fish it has a pronounced flavor that pairs well with braised mustard greens ravioli and charred lemon emulsion. Don’t forget about cuttlefish, a little spice some acidity, green beans and crispy tempura herbs, now that’s a winning dish. Monchong now this is a fish that when poached and butter and served with a rock shrimp compote that is slightly sweet and salty brings your experience to another level. Suzuki is not just an automotive company it’s also a great eating fish from the shores of Japan. Barramundi from the northern coast of Australia gets a great crisp skin and broad, flakey flesh that delights the palate.
Here are a few items that are more common that would be nice to see more often on local menus. Walleye Pike, John Dory, Hebi, Loup de Mer, Spanish mackerel, yellow tail, robalo and sardines. The previous fish are among a very short list of items that I long for. There are many others that I don’t know about and if someone is so kind to introduce them to me I would be very appreciative. So start demanding more of a variety from the restaurants you frequent.
Food and Wine 2010
| June 25, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
Mid-June has become my favorite time of year these days. Simply put, this is when the Food and Wine Classic in Aspen is held. Since I spent my younger days working in Aspen, I have experienced this unbelievable festival at many different levels. Early on it was all about getting your hands on a pass so that you were able to get into the grand tasting and drink great wine all day long. As time goes on it became less about drinking and more about learning as much as I could. Each year there are dozens of informative seminars, as well as demonstrations and cook offs. After 19 years of maturing, I finally discovered what I like to call the “correct approach”. This involves get up early for a quick work out, try really hard not to die, then attending the trade seminars. I have learned that you must drink tons of water during these! Once the trade seminars are over get a quick preview in the Grand Tasting Tent. This time is mostly used to visit with old and new friends, sipping on juice. Once the tent fills up, I head to Ajax Tavern for truffle fries and champagne.
At this point there are choices to make either head back to the room for a quick nap and to sober up a bit or continue sitting at a restaurant or poolside sipping champagne until dinner. I find I always choose the latter. Dinner choices include Cache Cache, Syzygy, Matsuhissa or the best new chef’s dinner. After great food and wine it is time to explore one of the many parties. These usually last at least until three or four in the morning. Then home to bed if you can make it there and wake up the next morning and repeat until Monday. At this point you can see why that morning workout is oh so important, because without it you will never survive this rigorous routine.
My Food and Wine experience this year played out almost exactly as described above. I only missed one day of working out, but that was truly unavoidable. Here are some of the details that makes this weekend so special. I was able to eat Wagyu beef carpacio, wild king salmon tartar, live scallops, crispy uni, miso cod, tempura king crab, Japanese unagi, Muscovy duck, arctic char with watermelon, house cured salumi, pates, artisanal cheeses and some fabulous pork tacos. I was also able to get going early enough on Sunday to make duck confit hash with poached eggs and aged gouda hollandaise for breakfast. Billecart salmon brut rose was amongst my favorite champagne consumed. Patron Tequila hosted a party on Friday evening. This event is what pushed me over the edge. The wine all day, the tequila all night, and my dear friend Hendricks at closing caused my downfall. I was off kilter for most of Saturday morning but was able to regain enough composure to kick back a few buckets of coronas with friends before heading into the tent and out to the best new chef’s dinner at Aspen Meadows. It was nice to see a couple of Virginians and an old pal from Denver receiving the nod this year.
After all of the food and wine have been enjoyed the real fun and appreciation of this weekend rings clear in the fact that I was able to spend time with many of my friends who I don’t see often enough and meet new chefs, winemakers and entrepreneurs from around the world. This is the main reason that the Aspen Food and Wine Classic is so great. I’ve already set up my accommodations for next year’s event!
A Day in the City
| May 25, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
When I first got my driver’s license I really enjoyed a good road trip whether it was a weekend in Vermont for some skiing or heading towards Ft. Lauderdale for some sun. So now that I have been driving for many years why should that change? I packed up my car and plugged in 2 east 55th street NYC, my destination, the St. Regis Hotel. Just because the idea of a nice drive hasn’t changed doesn’t mean that my accommodation requirements can’t. For this trip, the endurance would not be in the drive but in the dining. The overall weekend scenario is Saturday leave by 1pm, Dinner 1 at Travertine 6:30 pm, Dinner 2 at the Modern 10:30 pm. Sunday’s plan: walk the Brooklyn Bridge by noon, brunch at DBGB 1 pm and dinner 5:30 pm at Ma Peche. Leave for home 7 pm. Here’s how it unfolded.
Got to the Lincoln tunnel by 4:30 pm and it took another hour to get to the hotel. Checked in, changed and hailed a cab to Travertine. Met with friends over cocktails then dug into apps, Hearts of Escarole Salad and bone Marrow, then pastas, Gnocchi and Pici, a duck entrée and finally desserts, rhubarb tart and buttermilk panna cotta. The hand rolled Pici with fennel sausage was my favorite and the escarole a close second. Now it’s time to hit the 6 train uptown. We arrive at the Modern around 10 PM and are greeted with a couple of glasses of brut rose and escorted to a great table by the windows looking into the sculpture garden. Three hors d’oeuvres start us off, the piquillo pepper sphere, chilled asparagus soup with smoked quail eggs and a foie gras and pheasant terrine with truffles. Perfect in every way. Next was the butter poached lobster with morels, again on point. Entrees hit the table squab and licorice caramelized hamachi, man do I love squab especially when it served with foie gras. For dessert a baba grand marnier, caramel parfait and a chocolate palet. All were exceptional. It’s midnight and time to head out, but not before the chocolate trolley arrives with an unspeakable amount and variety of chocolates from candies to toffee. How can you resist? Then came the ice cream cone. At the door saying goodbye and here’s a raspberry brownie for the walk home. At this point I must say I am full but so appreciative of everything I tasted in the previous six hours.
Sunday morning comes around quick, a French press, some grapes and a banana set me right for the walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. This was the first time I had done this and was a very good time but with all of that physical exertion it’s time to find lunch so off to DBGB, Daniel Boulud’s market style restaurant. Lamb sausage, veal sausage, a chop salad, house made ham omelette and cheese blintz all washed down with a nice brown ale. I’m starting to realize that my time here is coming to an end as we head back towards the hotel to have a couple classic cocktails before dinner in the Regis bar. I sampled the Red Snapper, it’s the original bloody Mary invented in that same bar. Our last stop Ma Peche, David Chang’s newest restaurant in the chambers hotel. Beef tartar, asparagus salad, chicken pate, pork ribs, fried cauliflower and rice noodles were my final dishes eaten on this trip.
This was a whirl wind trip and was well worth the 9 hours spent in the car. I’m still full!
Whoopie Pies, The New Cupcake?
| May 18, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
Let me tell you I’m a fan. For about five months now we have been making Red Velvet style whoopie pies at Zola Wine and Kitchen. They have been very well received and we also expanded our reach into our other restaurants.
The classic whoopie is two chocolate cake/cookie discs that are filled with a marshmallow fluff filling. I must admit I have eaten more of these sweet treats than I should have but it is the equivalent of an ice cream sandwich that doesn’t melt.
Red Velvet Whoopie Pie at Zola Wine & Kitchen
What we are doing here is introducing many different flavors similar to that of the cupcake world. You have already heard about our inaugural pie, the Red Velvet. Since then, however, we have introduced four additional flavors. We stocked Spy City Café first with three varieties. The first being a fairly straightforward Lemon Pie, this has a vanilla cake that is riddled with fresh lemon and filled with a lemon flavored fluff then garnished with candied lemon. After that came the PB&J, this one is really, really, really good. Imagine that classic childhood lunch morphed into dessert. We use chocolate cakes for this one. They’re filled with a ring of peanut butter fluff and grape jelly then topped with a toasted peanut. And finally the Carnival, this one is a kids’ dream. Vanilla cake baked with jimmies then stuffed with a chocolate chip fluff and finished with a gum ball. Yes, it may be bordering on sugar overload but it’s worth it for the texture alone.
Carnival, Lemon, and PB&J Whoopie Pies at Spy City Cafe
That rounds out the Café and now we move onto Potenza, currently we have only one but it is so fitting, Tiramisu. Destined to be a true whoopie classic, coffee infused cakes doused with a marsala and rum syrup then filled with mascarpone fluff and topped with a chocolate covered espresso bean. This is just the beginning and the possibilities are endless. We currently have a few adult versions in development from the Mojito, Irish coffee and even a Side Car. Stay tuned for more exciting flavors!
The Importance of Food and Wine
| May 12, 2010 | Posted by admin under Uncategorized |
Over the past year I have spent most of my waking hours either at Potenza trying to dial in our recipes from the Sunday gravy to our house cured meats. On the road visiting local farms learning about animal husbandry and how some of these local vegetable farmers go about their process. At Zola Wine and Kitchen teaching cooking classes and starting our quick serve lunch. And finally at Zola re-doing our menu format and introducing new cooking techniques to our staff. Needless to say when I have had some time off all I wanted to do is spend time at home relaxing.
Since doing this I have not been out to dine in quite some time. Dining out not only stimulates the restaurant scene but it also gives one a chance to sit back with friends and family and lose yourself in their company for a couple hours. The importance of this is not only the support of our local restaurants but it keeps you up to date on what’s going on in your neighborhood plus it exposes you to many things you may have not tried in the past. New experiences are great and in my opinion necessary to grow.
Now that Potenza has been up and running for a year, Sous Chef Robbie has pitching in on our classes and running the lunch at Zola Wine and Kitchen and we are refreshed at Zola so I have a little more time on my hands. In order to fill this time I start dining again. Whenever I eat out I always try to eat something I’ve never had or that is prepared in a way that I haven’t seen. By doing this I’m able to learn more about a product or a chef. These experiences also give me some insight into what are the most common ingredients on menus so that I can offer something more unique to our guests.
And then there’s the wine, for the last few years people are preaching beer tastings and pairing beer with food. This is a fun way to experience food and different hand crafted brews but for me on the more serious side of dining, I need my wine. First question is how do you choose sparkling, white or red? The answer is simple and always the same, all of them. I’m not sure how to forego any of these. I always start with a glass of sparkling and then dive into a white and of course finish with red. For most of this I like to live in Burgundy but will venture around the world depending on what is on my plate. In order to be able to pull this off and not get pulled over on the way home I am always appreciative of the restaurant that offers a large and well thought out half bottle page or simply by the glass for two types and focus on a bottle that you really like for the third.
All in all food and wine are meant to go together and should be savored with family and friends this is much better entertainment than any movie I’ve ever seen. Happy Dining to you and remember try something new.
