Monthly Archives: July 2010

Bites Menu

Recently I’ve been able to get out to many of our wonderful local eateries.  In doing this I have come across one small obstacle.  That obstacle is the fact that even my stomach is not large enough to hold everything I want to try.  See, for me the whole point of dining out is to sample a chefs creativity and as much of it as you can.  So dinner after dinner I order everything I would like to try and either leave unbelievably full or leave a ton of food on the plates even though I may want to continue eating.  At some point one must succumb to reality.  This goes the same for wine I believe every meal should consist of champagne, white and red, as well as port or Madeira to wrap things up.  Half bottles for the beverage option usually works well for me. In order to encourage our guests to partake in this philosophy it was evident that I would need to create a sort of mini appetizers selection.  Since the beginning stages of development it only made sense that we would pair these small bites with samplings of wine.

Onto the menu development stage, Potenza is the place and Italian is the style.  It just so happens that now is a perfect time to be starting this because there are so many fun little things that are in season and will work well with this format.  I start collecting items, squash blossoms, figs, local summer squashes, local veal, summer truffles, cauliflower and some ahi tuna just because its good.  Now that I have a bunch of fun things to experiment what do I do with them?  Since I want each of these items to focused there will only be supporting flavors to the main ingredient. I started with the figs, balsamic is a must, then add just a touch of gorgonzola and why wouldn’t you want to wrap the whole thing with house cured pancetta? The first of seven bites was born.

Next, ahi tuna in all of its sashimi grade splendor.  This must be the simplest of all the bites. Black olive pesto on house made lovash finished with just a touch of maldon sea salt.  Then there’s the veal, I’m a huge fan of osso bucco, braised veal shank but now is not the season for a big plate of richly braised meat but what if you used that meat mixed with something.  I go right to arancini, those crisply fried risotto balls of love.  Local braised veal arancini because fried risotto is always in fashion.  A velvety smooth cauliflower puree topped with briefly seared diver scallops and a kiss of fennel pollen. Stone roasted local vegetables with house made mozzarella and creamy garlic.  In the summertime there just has to be a bruschetta so why not top it with our house cured salmon, some charred frisee and caperberries.  And lastly we need to stuff and crisp those wonderfully seasonal squash blossoms, truffled chicken and ricotta comes to mind immediately, why not place them on a lightly truffled asparagus sauce.  There was no reason not to.

Now that the bites have been written its time to eat.  See you at Potenza to try our bites with pairings!

Seafood on the Menu

A couple of weeks ago I wrote about my desire to see a larger variety of seafood on local menus. Later that week is was fortunate enough to come across a restaurant serving cuttlefish which happened to be delicious. Since then I have began my menu development for the fast approaching autumnal season. For this I have started playing with a variety of products, the aforementioned cuttlefish, sablefish, turbot, langoustines, live scallops, rouget, and suzuki to name a few.

I must admit it has been a long time since I’ve worked with some of these items and I have forgotten how good and distinctive they are. Take the sablefish for example. This fish has enough flavor and richness to take on a variety of different strong and intense flavors. It will hold up to veal stock as well as pair extremely well with a champagne gastrique. I find that when you throw some butter poached salsify into the mix it smiles for more and is a true joy to eat. Next up turbot, one of my favorite fish of all time, this fish is meaty and extremely flavorful. I went with saffron spaghetti and mussel jus with house cured spicy soppressata on this plate.

Now let’s talk langoustines for just one second. The last time I was fortunate to eat langoustines was when I was on my honeymoon in Paris at Le Cinq a Michelin two star restaurant. This was a very long time ago and as soon as I bit into one of those lovely broiled langoustines the memories all came flooding back. From the moment we were seated to hearing another guest in the dining room recognizing me and stopping by to say hi, to the smoking of a fine cigar in the courtyard as the evening came to an end and everything in between including those special langoustines.  Food is a funny thing in that regard, not only does it give you energy to go about your daily lifestyle but it also serves as a time capsule to memories long forgotten. What a wonderful thing that with one bite those long forgotten memories are front and center as if they just happened yesterday.

Back to the matter at hand suzuki and cuttlefish are next on the board and I have a few great ideas for the robust flavor of the Suzuki with crisped skin. I will take the next few hours contemplating the fate of the ever so special cuttlefish.

Sit back and enjoy the fruits of the sea!